Trends come and go in fascinating cycles. What once was old is new again. Whether in fashion, phrases, or foodstuffs, sometimes looking backwards is a way to move forward. One recipe that I think should come back into the spotlight once again is Springerle.
Springlerle is a very specific kind of cookie, pressed with a carved wooden mold, allowed to dry and baked carefully to show a crunchy cookie with a detailed design and a softer base. It’s not entirely clear where these specific cookies originated, though many historians believe they originated as part of Julfest, celebrated by pagan Germanic tribes. (Instead of sacrificing livestock to appease their gods, these people were too poor to lose an animal to sacrifice. They baked these beautiful and rich cookies instead as an offering.) But to really see where Springerle evolved from, we need to look back even further. People have been stamping baked goods with designs for thousands of years. In the ancient Indus Valley, clay molds were used to imprint honey cakes. The tradition soon spread to The Greeks and Egyptians. Even the carbonized bread loaves from Pompeii have evidence of a stamped design, likely the insignia of the proud baker who produced it. It’s no wonder that those ancient traditions of decorating baked goods with stamps or molds evolved into an elegant and beautiful cookie.
Before the option of baking powder was readily available, bakers used to use cooked and powdered deer antler in its place as a rising agent. Springerle is traditionally flavored with anise, an unusual flavor for a cookie! But it, too has a long history of use as a sacrificial food, spice, and medicine in the ancient times. Somehow this unusual spice and the tradition of stamping cookies came together and became a popular confection in the 16th century. As white sugar became more affordable, it allowed bakers to create cookies that were as pristine and detailed as the lace on a wedding dress. Their allure spread throughout central Europe and eventually became a way to portray royalty. The recipe was adapted by the Church, and springerle soon became associated with portraying religious stories or figures. They also rose in fashion; having a large, ornate springerle mold so that you could bake detailed cookies for your guests was a sign of prosperity and status.
Springerle adapted to the times, with the styles of design changing to suit the aesthetics of the era. From large religious figures to simple fruits or birds, springerle charm found its way through time in the hands of those who were enchanted by its beauty. But slowly, eventually, it dropped off the map.
Though now it’s a relatively unknown confection, I think it’s time for springerle to come back into the public eye. I love carving my own cookie molds from wood (though you can also buy them online) to feature some of the plants I love most. I’ve also replaced the anise extract with wild fennel extract since it grows readily around here. A little matcha powder gives the cookies a refreshing green color and slight hint of grassiness.
Wild fennel is the same fennel as you might find in your local grocery store - Foeniculum vulgare. It’s native to the Mediterranean but, like many other plants found in our fields today, has escaped captivity and spread throughout the world. Here in the Pacific Northwest it is considered an invasive weed so harvest as much as you would like! Be careful with identification as any plant with umbels can be mistaken for Poison Hemlock, which has purple spots on its stalks and grows in wet areas. (Having a guidebook along on your foraging expeditions helps immensely.) Also, be aware that fennel and other similar plants like wild carrot can cause phototoxicity. Be cautious about getting fennel juice on your skin and then exposing it to sun as it can burn or blister.
Looking Backwards:
As you enjoy these cookies (perhaps with a cup of tea), think about what trends or lessons from the past you’d like to see re-surface, and why. Perhaps an older family member taught you a recipe that you haven’t made in a while, or maybe there are some old clothes in the back of your closet that could be adapted slightly to fit modern styles. Culture is an endlessly spinning wheel, and for every new innovation, something else is relegated to the dusty halls of history. What treasures might you find there if you took the time to look?
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